![]() ![]() Once removed, you just have to wiggle the top housing off of the hinge and sort of finesse the ribbon cable for the top screen out. ![]() Now you can remove the top screen housing entirely. You can then either wrap this connection in electrical tape, or just put a dab of hot glue on it to insulate it. If you have 30 gauge kynar wire you can just use that, if not, remove the longer black and red wires connecting these two boards and solder them to the speaker as seen below. Remove the screws holding the two small boards in. Once these are all removed you can remove the shoulder buttons and lift the motherboard from the shell.Īfter the screws are removed pry the back of the screen off to reveal the inside. Do it slowly and softly, it is fragile (if you break it you can fix it with somewhat of a workaround). These two ribbon cables are removed by pulling the brown locking mechanism forward. Do not remove the motherboard yet, first lift up the bottom screen large ribbon cable to reveal two smaller cables below it. Once removed disconnect the Wifi antenna cable, and the ribbon cables marked in red. Once opened, remove the screws marked in red. Using the tri-wing screwdriver, removed the screws from the points marked in red below.Īfter the screws are removed simply lift the rear of the shell to reveal the innards of the DS. 3 Surface Mount Resistor (or standard 330OHM resistor though this tutorial focuses on using a SMT resistor).There is one thing that I had to change from the stock buttons was to shave off the little nubs on them other wise they don’t sit straight.I’m cross posting this tutorial here for anyone who isn’t following ! I knew there was enough space to fit a speaker on the front of a gameboy macro XL so I added a speaker grill and left plenty of space so you can pull the speaker out of the top screen, Again no need to buy anything else for the mod. The face plate is held down with the same black screws that held the original DS case so no need to buy anything else. I’m so glad I did because it helped to make it a snap to install. I sent one of the face plates over to another modder to get some fresh eyes on the design and installation, He gave me the push to add tabs to hold the buttons and rubbers in place to make it easier to install. With the original DS phat the button were held in place with the rubbers attached to the top plate to hold the buttons in place, I on the hand just put the rubbers on the PCB and lined up the buttons then placed the face plate over everything, This was tricky to get right. I had to use support on the d-pad and the buttons which left a rough pattern, To get around this I printed a 2 layer thick mask to stick over these parts to cover up the support surface. It took a few prints to get it right so that saved me some time.Īs I got the screen hole and button holes lined up I started to fine tune the design, I had to sink the buttons into the face because they weren’t at the same level as the screen. I also did this for the front of the shell too for the holes for the light pips for power/charging LED’s. I included enough of the reference points to line it up with the rest of the case but it was a fraction of the time to print. For example I needed to test the fit of the back part of the case, I was hard to measure so I just eye balled it. I also like to test part of a design out I’ll “cut” that part from the rest of the design. Its super boxy but I’m testing the over all size here as well. As you can see the prints are starting to take longer so you need to included as much detail as you can. I also took a stab at the button layout while I was at it. Once I had these mapped out I could start on the screen hole and screen surround. I started by mapping out the screw posts, I measured them out the best I could then I printed just the screw posts with a brim on the base of them, This way so I could compare it to the PCB and rear of the case. It does follow the basic design and layout of the released unit. Also I couldn’t at first find a photo of the base of the beta unit but I ended up finding one and its quite different including the L and R buttons. I decided to keep the original rear shell of the DS phat because that part doesn’t really take away from the new face plate and saves me a TON of work. Join me below to see how I pulled it off. This is probability the most complex thing I have ever designed. Before the Original DS was released they were showing off a different design then what they ended up releasing, Ive always thought that the original design was so much better. I’ve been making a few Gameboy Marco and I have seen a few different 3d printed face plates for the DS Lite but non for the DS Phat. ![]()
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